Insider guides, curated itineraries and local knowledge from the French Riviera experts.
The French Riviera ends at Menton. Beyond it, the Italian border and a different coast with different rhythms. Menton has always sat slightly apart from the glamour circuit, which is precisely what makes it interesting. This is a town of lemons. The Menton lemon, grown in terraced gardens above the city, is considered one of […]
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There is a tunnel on the Moyenne Corniche, cut through the rock just before Eze. You enter it in shadow, radio murmuring, the cliff pressing close on either side. You leave it in a wash of blue so vast and so sudden that conversation simply stops. This is what the Corniche roads French Riviera travellers […]
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Most people who arrive in Monaco walk straight to the Casino. It is an understandable instinct, the kind of gravity that a building acquires when it has been famous long enough. But a Monaco private tour beyond casino visits and harbour selfies reveals a principality that has been accumulating history, beauty, and a quiet inner […]
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Most visitors to the French Riviera follow the same circuit: Nice, Monaco, Cannes. They miss Antibes entirely. That is a mistake worth correcting. Antibes sits between Nice and Cannes on a headland jutting into the Mediterranean. The old town is enclosed by seventeenth-century ramparts designed by Vauban, the master fortification engineer of Louis XIV. Walking […]
Read moreThe road rises sharply out of Cannes, past terraced gardens and low stone walls, and after twenty minutes the air changes. Something floral, green, almost medicinal, arrives through the open window before you see a single sign for the town. This is how Grasse announces itself. Not with architecture or spectacle, but with scent. It […]
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There is a moment, as the road curves steeply out of Beaulieu-sur-Mer and the limestone walls close in on either side, when you understand why cinematographers have always been drawn to this part of the coast. Then the village appears: grey and ancient against the sky, and below it, impossibly far below, the Mediterranean opens […]
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The light is what they don’t warn you about. Not the summer light, fierce and flattening, turning every bay the colour of a postcard you have seen before, but the October light, the pale gold of an April morning, the extraordinary clarity of a January afternoon when the coast belongs to almost nobody. The French […]
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One day in Nice, done properly: the Cours Saleya market at breakfast, the Old Town and Colline du Chateau, Matisse and Chagall, lunch on Nicoise cooking, the Promenade at sunset. The order matters.
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The real Cannes is not the Croisette. It is Le Suquet on the hill, the Forville market, the Lerins Islands offshore, and the old port that predates the Film Festival by several centuries. A guide to Cannes that goes beyond the obvious.
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The French Riviera has been a film location since the 1950s. From the Grande Corniche chase in GoldenEye to Grace Kelly on the Moyenne Corniche in To Catch a Thief: a guide to the real locations and what they look like today.
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